Tuesday October 29, 2019
The Africana Halal Restaurant, Des Moines' newest Somali restaurant. Photographed on Oct. 20, 2019. (Photo: Andrea May Sahouri/Special to the Register)
With no menus or decor and a set price of $10 for every meal, the Africana Halal Restaurant is a wildly different concept for many Des Moines residents.
But for me, and others who hail from African and Middle Eastern communities, the Somali restaurant feels like home.
"There's a saying in Somali culture: If you go to a Somali restaurant, you don't order — the waiter tells you what you're eating," Abshir Omar, 28, the Somali-born owner of the restaurant, said.
It makes sense, considering the place does not have one menu in sight.
The Africana Halal Restaurant, Des Moines' newest Somali restaurant. Photographed on Oct. 20, 2019. (Photo: Andrea May Sahouri/Special to the Register)
The restaurant itself, located on the north side of Des Moines, is a small building with green walls, plain black tables and chairs, and that's pretty much it — aside from a Quran I see from time to time on one of the restaurant's tables.
At first, I almost didn't think the place was open. I walked in one afternoon and asked.
"Yes, of course," an older Somali woman, Omar's mother, said to me. "What do you want to eat? We have everything, chicken, lamb, goat, rice, spaghetti, vegetables. Just tell me."
The woman, Dahabo Hassan, had a gold crown on one of her teeth and she was wearing her traditional Somali Dirac in brown, yellow, and black tones.
I remember thinking two things: First, this woman means business, and I'm here for it. I could tell she's worked hard her whole life to get to where she is now, like my own immigrant mother has; and secondly, they have a place like this in Des Moines?
It reminded me of restaurants I'd go to during my visits to Palestine every summer growing up; in some quaint, family-owned restaurants, you just order. No need for menus.
"I think that experience of coming in, bartering, negotiating — it's a fun experience," Omar said. "It's a conversation. Basically, you tell us what you want and we make it happen."
Just like home, I thought to myself.
With a huge smile on my face, I said "Mashallah, lamb please."
The Africana Halal Restaurant, Des Moines' newest Somali restaurant. Photographed on Oct. 20, 2019. (Photo: Andrea May Sahouri/Special to the Register)
Diverse flavors and huge portions
I sat down. Around me were Somalis speaking their native tongue, which made me even more happy to be there and provided a sense of authenticity to the restaurant's environment.
By the time my food came, my mouth hurt from smiling so much. My meal was huge — it could easily feed two people. But I came hungry; the food tasted so delicious and flavorful, I ate every bite.
The lamb on the bone and rice itself was a large portion, and on top of that my meal was served with a green hot sauce, a side salad and a banana to soften the spices, a Somali tradition.
"If Somali restaurants run out of bananas, all hell breaks loose," Omar said.
The Africana Halal Restaurant, Des Moines' newest Somali restaurant. Photographed on Oct. 20, 2019. (Photo: Andrea May Sahouri/Special to the Register)
The spices were incredible. My lamb and rice didn't taste exactly like the spices I was used to in Palestinian culture; of course, every culture has its own unique mixes and uses of spices, and I was glad it was a change of palate.
I felt so thankful to have experienced a new culture and its food.
Omar told me that in Somali culture they traditionally use a plethora of spices, such as fenugreek, coriander, cumin, cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon sticks, bay leaf, black seed, turmeric, and ginger.
These spices came to life in my meal and left me feeling warm, grateful and stuffed.
Just being there eating Somali food felt like an ode to my immigrant parents, and immigrant communities nationwide. It serves as a reminder that in the United States, there are so many cultures we can experience, even in small cities like Des Moines. There are pockets of diversity everywhere.
I embraced my meal with a sense of familiarity growing up in an immigrant household that only enhanced my experience there, and the banana was the cherry on top.
Not only did I experience Somali food, but also Somali traditions. I was sold.
That's right, only $10
The price of my meal? $10. The price of your (potential) meal? $10. The price of my future meals? $10.
That's right: every meal has a set price of $10, which I don't think I've seen that done anywhere.
"We can charge that price because we don't have a lot of extravagances," Omar said, citing, for instance, the lack of decor and menus.
"Everyone's taken aback by it."
Omar says the restaurant is doing well and often caters around Des Moines. He has ambitious plans for expansion and hopes to set up a second location near Drake University.
Omar believes that the low cost and diverse food options will be appealing to college students.
More than just a restaurant
Since the restaurant opened about a year ago, the African Halal Restaurant has been a meeting place for Somalis in the community and beyond.
"There's been a large growth of Somalis in Des Moines, so there was a need in the community," Omar said. "It's so communal; it's a place for everyone to come together. In Somali culture, you go to the masjid, cafes and restaurants."
But not just Somalis dine there; Omar and his mother both told me the crowd is always diverse.
"The place brings together so many different people. I'll see a Sudanese couple, a white couple, a group of Somali guys, and a Syrian with an Iraqi refugee. They might have never even interacted before, and now they are all coming together over Somali food," Omar said.
"I will say, on a busy afternoon, the restaurant is probably the most diverse spot in Polk County."
Address: 2907 Douglas Ave, Des Moines, IA 50310
Hours: Open everyday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.